Engine Pipework

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Having got the engine in place proceeded with oil, fuel and water hoses.

The AN oil fittings are a very tight fit. Needed to heat up the oil pipe with a heat gun, add some light lithium grease, and support in a vice, to get them to fit all the way. Tightening the oil line AN fittings on the RHS sump of the engine is very tricky, only able to turn a small amount at a time. The nut on the LHS needs the silencer to be partially removed. Need to be careful not to overtighten aluminium fittings. Needs finger tight plus a 1/4 turn.

Fuel hoses require heat shield silicone orange heatshield tricky to fit – used car tyre compressor to inflate – helps but still hard work to get proper fit. I noted that TAF has recently changed the fuel pressure sensor in the latest KAI. Note that 3/8″ SAE R9 fuel hose is specified throughout now for modern fuels. Need to get some R9 as my kit is missing a lot of fuel pipe.

It’s easier to add the silver heat shield to oil and water pipes before the final install. The kit calls up plastic zip ties to hold hose standoffs in place. Having used these ties for many years in ham radio operations, I know that they perish easily even just outdoors, so I used some stainless steel ones.

Throttle cable, be sure to use the correct PVC heat shield/stiffener hose. On each end of the throttle cable. No pre-drilled hole in my firewall for the throttle cable drilled a hole from photos.

Fitted the brake hose, here is a picture of my standoff. Pictures in KAI are not clear on how to do this.

KAI calls for a cut of the Rotax 915 exhaust pipe and fit a tailpipe.

I made the cut with an angle grinder, but my tailpipe did not fit correctly. The expanded open end was not expanded far enough, to enable me to get the two exhaust clamps on. Plus there would be a leak at the join. The factory sent me a corrected tailpipe, no problem to fit with clamps now in the correct places.

A few hours of trying to get it to fit was frustrating.

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